In my cups 1: Britannia Teas

Growing up, I used to sneak cups of tea when my parents were out of the house.

Once puberty hit with all its feminine joys, my mother – who always drank tea with her mother, an English war bride – officially introduced me to the healing powers of a "good cup of tea." Better than Midol, I can tell you that. It was King Cole, maltier than either Tetley or Red Rose, steeped at least 5 minutes with one bag to the mug, and then lightened with – hey, sing along, you know the words – Carnation evaporated milk.

Kelly Jones, owner of Britannia Teas, now open at 199 Water Street, used to drink 5 cups a day with her Nan in Brittania on Random Island. It’s not hard to understand why the Japanese have developed an elaborate ritual around the preparation and serving of matcha tea. It’s a very social act, making tea for someone else. Easy for us, with running water and electricity to boil the kettle. Harder when making tea meant drawing water and building a fire.

Britannia Teas is an uncluttered tea shop. I say "uncluttered" because many of the shops I’ve visited in Ontario are so crowded with china and glass that I’m afraid to move. At Britannia Teas, you’ve got room to have a good look.

That’s not the only thing Ms Jones has done well. Most of the tea is loose, which makes for a better cup. Much of the tea in regular tea bags is what’s called "fannings." That means broken leaves and dust. Loose tea leaves expand in hot water and make for a more flavourful and cleaner cup. Yes, cleaner. Next time you brew Tetley, look how cloudy it is.

The loose teas at Britannia are in dark canisters, protecting the leaves from light. I visited an expensive tea shop in Ottawa last year and nearly cried when I saw all the tea in clear glass jars. Sure enough, the small amounts I bought were stale and tasteless. So how do you know what the tea at Britannia Teas looks like or smells like? Ms Jones has put out a small sample canister of each. Brilliant.

The variety is amazing. Two Assams, three Darjeelings ... and that’s just the black teas. Several green teas, both Chinese and Japanese, are available, and there’s even an Earl Grey Green with a Newfoundland connection. The organic Lapsang Souchong must have been withered over a real pine fire, like it’s supposed to be, because you can smell distant pine on the smoke.

Best of all, there’s a selection of teas for children. Mostly fruit-based, these caffeine-free herbals will make any child feel more grown up and part of their broader community. The rooibos (pronounced ROY-boss or ROY-bus) varieties are also appropriate for children (who might be sneaking the regular stuff when you’re out of the house). Rooibos is a reddish bush that grows only in South Africa. It’s full if anti-oxidants and can be very soothing; South African mothers give it tepid in bottles to colicky babies. My older daughter drinks rooibos day and night. Britannia Tea’s Hunny Rooibos will likely go over well with children, or anyone with a sweet tooth. The Rooibos Chai lets you know you’re alive.

If you’re nervous about brewing loose tea, Brittania Teas have many infusers and teapots to make it easier.

Bagged varieties include the incredible Yorkshire Blend and the even better Yorkshire Gold. This is what Tetley wants to be in its fondest dreams. These black teas brew up dark and "proper," as my Yorkshire Nan would have said. They’re malty and bright, and on a foggy bonerot of a day, they could save your life. Britannia Teas also stocks the Yorkshires loose.

Kelly Jones and Danielle Irvine know their teas, and they’re ready with recommendations.

Life is short. Go get some tea.

www.britanniateas.ca